'What an unexpected treat!' enthused one reporter, whose expectations were greatly exceeded by the food served at this upmarket Middle Eastern restaurant. The cool colours, dim lighting and spaciousness render it surprisingly elegant. The extensive menu, divided into long lists of platters, cold and hot mezze and main courses, are freshly and carefully prepared. There is a light hand with spicing, and a delicacy and sensitivity of palate that marks the food served here. Cold mezze such as silky smooth hoummus, smoky moutabbal (aubergine puree) and tender stuffed vine leaves may precede hot mezze such as tangy-sharp fatayer (baked spinach in pastry parcels). Main courses are mostly grilled or roasted. On inspection, the grilled minced lamb skewers, flavoured with parsley, pine nuts and onions, were a standout. Finally, resist if you can the home-made ice creams, the rosewater version of which has been described as 'velvety' and 'seductive'. Formally dressed staff are professional, proficient and solicitous. The drinks list is thick with the best names in champagne, Burgundy and Bordeaux - plus provides a selection of araks. Bottle prices start at ￡18 for house French white.